Hey guys, this is Matt with the YouTube channel bleep in Jeep. Today I want to show you how to install a truck bedliner. If you haven't been with us before, make sure to hit the subscribe button. We have new videos every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. We have the best off-road, related how-to videos on the interweb alright. So the first thing that we're going to do is clean up the truck bed, in my case we're working on my own, I'm Tundra, and it has this factory rubber or plastic piece in there. We'Ve got to take all that out and then we're going to clean it up. So the products we're using today are from some products. I'Ll show you those in a second, but they make truck bed liners and all kinds of other stuff. So the first step is just to get everything out of there, get it really clean and then we're going to pressure wash it out. So in my case, I found some rust spots. The bad thing about those liners are that water gets trapped under there and starts accumulating rust. So I decided to go ahead and take care of that now. You can't have any rust when you do the bedliner, so I started grinding the rust off and it turned out to be a lot worse than I thought, and I ended up with two holes in the floor. I guess I think what happened was the rust was coming from underneath there's actually a piece of metal welded or something underneath, as you can see right there, that's part of the frame and it rusted, I believe from underneath. So after I ground that out, I had to power wash it again, because now the whole thing was full of dust. Once again, I decided I was going to fix those holes, though so I made this quick template out of a piece of paper. That'S old old-school method there and then I just cut out a little piece of 18 gauge steel that fit that hole exactly and then I'm welding it in spot welding it in here the welds didn't go very good, because I guess there was still a little bit Metal a little bit of metal or a little bit of rust, but I did the best. I could. I think, if I did it over again, I'd probably cut out a square section. So here's the products we're using these are all from sim and they make all these products here and I'll show you them one by one and I'm also going to leave links in the description box below so the first one. Is this sim solve it's just a cleaner and according to the directions you want to just use this first to go ahead and clean up all the stuff, the junk, the oils that are in your rust bed and your truck bed? So it also comes with its own spray gun for the truck bedliner, and this I got on Amazon. It'S a bed brush and it goes on your big angle. Grinder, I don't have to have one of, but it just is going to make it a lot easier on you. You can use sand paper and sand it either by hand or with the DA, but this is going to make it a lot quicker. A lot faster because you need to rough up the surface before you put the bed liner in so even with this bed brush, it was still pretty difficult and time-consuming, but I cannot imagine what it would take to do it with just a piece of sandpaper. So this helped out quite a bit made the job a lot faster and at that point the breaker trip and the lights went off. I got that actually for 12 bucks, like the day before the sand. Are there alright? So I'm just going to spray it out and get all of that sanding debris out of the truck bed and then I'm going to use that sim salt and wipe it down one more time, just to make sure everything is nice and clean in there next thing. I'M going to do is tape it off and you're going to have to tape off the whole truck. So keep that in mind, and you want to be able to remove the tape as soon as you lay the last coat. So keep that in mind as well, and you want to get some pieces of plastic and tape off the whole truck, including the hood everything all right. This is the rust trap from sim and the flattener, and the flattener just makes it not glossy. So I'm using this to get any of the spots that have bare metal on them after I sand it so those spots where I had to sand down the rust to bare metal, we need to cover up that up with paint before we put down the truck Bedliner because you don't want to put the truck bedliner on directly on bare metal, so you don't need to use the same products, but I figured this rust trap would be a lot better than just using regular primer and I'm going to spray it with the spray Gun so I'm just testing out the spray and looks good now. If I were to do this over over again I'd - probably tape off the parts that I wanted to spray, because I ended up over spraying quite a bit of the whole truck bed. And then I have to come back and sand that down before I can do the truck bedliner. So I'm just hitting all the little spots where I see bare metal and especially those spots where I welded the hole up in the center there and I'm going to do that twice. So I'm going to I'm going to do a real light coat at first and then do another coat. You always want to do light coats and then I'm going to come back over that after it dries with some 220 grit sandpaper. Somehow, in the editing process I showed that twice wax on wax off all right, so I'm going to sand all of that down where I repainted with that primer and then I'm also taping off the tailgate. So I do one thing of tape and then I put the plastic on and then I do another thing of tape on the plastic. So this is the tack cloth and the tack cloth just. Is it like a sticky cloth that picks up all of the dust and cleans everything up really nice? So this is the protex truck bed liner, so there's two parts: there's the the truck bed liner and then the catalyst it's you'll see here in a minute. It'S kind of like a clear gluey stuff and this one is black. They also make tin table version, so you can have it tinted in any color that you want. So it's two to one. So you want to have two parts of the truck bedliner and one part of the catalyst, and it comes the kit. You can buy this all in a kit and it comes with the mixing bucket and the spray gun and everything I take that back. It may not come with the spray gun. You may apply that separately, but you want to stir this up for two minutes and it comes with these bottles. So you can reuse these a couple times and then you have to start a new bottle. You'Ll see here in a minute, but in between coats. You have to wait about twenty minutes and it depends on the humidity and the temperature. I was sitting at about 65 degrees. If it's really hot out, then it's going to set up faster, so you can also buy an additive that gives you more working time if you have to work in a hot environment. So on this first coat, you want to do a real light coat. So you can still see the paint showing through you're just gon na just like when you do any sort of paint process. The first coat is always very light, and with this, as you can see, I masked off the entire truck and I'm glad I did because when I had to paint up under the bed rails, this stuff is really thick. It'S not like paint and it doesn't just dissipate in the air when you spray it up, it goes in an arc and it's going to land somewhere else. All right. Take two. This is coat number two. So what you want to do is you want to get the side of the beds on the first and second coat. You don't want to spray the bottom part. Yet so you do your post first coat on the bed rails, second coat on the bed rails and then the third coat on the bed rails and as you're doing the third coat as you're coming out. You'Ll do the floor for the first coat. I think the fumes were getting to me at this point, so here is the the tailgate, and I just have this laying on the floor. If I were to do it again, I would get it up higher because, as you'll see here in a minute things started to get messy. You can probably guess why here's what I mean so whenever I had to overspray it went on the floor and then I had to walk around in it for another two hours and my shoes are never going to be the same so on the third coat after. I did the bed rails again, as I was coming out. That'S when you do the first coat of the floor of the truck and then you'll have to do the second and third coats of the floor from the outside. Now the fumes are really getting to me. Make sure you do this in a well-ventilated area with a mask on like I like you see here, so I think this is the second coat on the floor and again we're just doing real light coats here. I think the PSI I was running was 80 psi. The directions say anywhere from 45 to 90 psi on your spray gun and the the PSI is going to determine the texture, I'm not sure it'd, probably be a thicker texture. I would imagine with a lower psi, but I really am NOT positive and there's the oh. My goodness there's the problems, so the floor became so sticky that I started pulling up the stuff with my feet and it kind of made a mess. That'S why I said I would get that tailgate up higher if I were to do it again so on the second and third coats on the floor, I'm doing that from a ladder over the sides and just making sure I hit all the angles. There'S a lot more angles than you would think inside of this truck bed, so you have to get it from the right from the left from above from the back from the front, and you have to mix this in batches. You can't do it all at once, because it only has a 20 minute working time, so you can't mix it all until you're ready to spray. So it's going to take you about two hours to do the truck bed, because you have to wait those 15 to 20 minutes between coats, so right here, I'm just checking to see if I missed any spots hitting those spots where I need a little bit more. This is my third coat right here and I'm just making sure that I got every bit of it: okay, yep my shoes and walk down. Now my shoes are pretty much bed lined. So after you get the third coat on after a couple minutes, you can go ahead and peel the tape off. You want to do that, while it's still wet like I said that way, the tape doesn't get stuck under the hardened bed liner and there you go. Here'S what it's going to look like this is a couple days after it's finished and as you can see, it turned out really really nice. Here'S a close-up shot of the tailgate. I took the hardware out and didn't spray that I just wanted to be able to get it out in the future. I did spray some of the hooks and the hardware on the inside, but I think overall it turned out really well one of the things I wasn't sure how thick it was going to be. It'S not really as thick as I would have thought in my head. It'S probably 1/16 of an inch thick since I thought it was going to be so thick. I thought it would take care of some of those imperfections like in the front of the truck bed there and then wear eye patch that hole right there. You can see you can still kind of see those and you can see those imperfections in the front of the truck bed. But that's going to be taken care of when I put the box back in the aluminum truck box. So, if you're interested in any of these products check in the description below, like I said, they're made by sim and they carry all kinds of stuff from rust, presentative preventative, two seam sealer and everything in between thanks guys. Thanks for watching hit the thumbs up and the subscribe button, we have videos every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. If you enjoyed this video, please leave a comment below and if you have any questions, leave those there as well. We'Ll see you next time.
Wednesday, June 5, 2019
The Correct Way To Spray A Bedliner
Hey guys, this is Matt with the YouTube channel bleep in Jeep. Today I want to show you how to install a truck bedliner. If you haven't been with us before, make sure to hit the subscribe button. We have new videos every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. We have the best off-road, related how-to videos on the interweb alright. So the first thing that we're going to do is clean up the truck bed, in my case we're working on my own, I'm Tundra, and it has this factory rubber or plastic piece in there. We'Ve got to take all that out and then we're going to clean it up. So the products we're using today are from some products. I'Ll show you those in a second, but they make truck bed liners and all kinds of other stuff. So the first step is just to get everything out of there, get it really clean and then we're going to pressure wash it out. So in my case, I found some rust spots. The bad thing about those liners are that water gets trapped under there and starts accumulating rust. So I decided to go ahead and take care of that now. You can't have any rust when you do the bedliner, so I started grinding the rust off and it turned out to be a lot worse than I thought, and I ended up with two holes in the floor. I guess I think what happened was the rust was coming from underneath there's actually a piece of metal welded or something underneath, as you can see right there, that's part of the frame and it rusted, I believe from underneath. So after I ground that out, I had to power wash it again, because now the whole thing was full of dust. Once again, I decided I was going to fix those holes, though so I made this quick template out of a piece of paper. That'S old old-school method there and then I just cut out a little piece of 18 gauge steel that fit that hole exactly and then I'm welding it in spot welding it in here the welds didn't go very good, because I guess there was still a little bit Metal a little bit of metal or a little bit of rust, but I did the best. I could. I think, if I did it over again, I'd probably cut out a square section. So here's the products we're using these are all from sim and they make all these products here and I'll show you them one by one and I'm also going to leave links in the description box below so the first one. Is this sim solve it's just a cleaner and according to the directions you want to just use this first to go ahead and clean up all the stuff, the junk, the oils that are in your rust bed and your truck bed? So it also comes with its own spray gun for the truck bedliner, and this I got on Amazon. It'S a bed brush and it goes on your big angle. Grinder, I don't have to have one of, but it just is going to make it a lot easier on you. You can use sand paper and sand it either by hand or with the DA, but this is going to make it a lot quicker. A lot faster because you need to rough up the surface before you put the bed liner in so even with this bed brush, it was still pretty difficult and time-consuming, but I cannot imagine what it would take to do it with just a piece of sandpaper. So this helped out quite a bit made the job a lot faster and at that point the breaker trip and the lights went off. I got that actually for 12 bucks, like the day before the sand. Are there alright? So I'm just going to spray it out and get all of that sanding debris out of the truck bed and then I'm going to use that sim salt and wipe it down one more time, just to make sure everything is nice and clean in there next thing. I'M going to do is tape it off and you're going to have to tape off the whole truck. So keep that in mind, and you want to be able to remove the tape as soon as you lay the last coat. So keep that in mind as well, and you want to get some pieces of plastic and tape off the whole truck, including the hood everything all right. This is the rust trap from sim and the flattener, and the flattener just makes it not glossy. So I'm using this to get any of the spots that have bare metal on them after I sand it so those spots where I had to sand down the rust to bare metal, we need to cover up that up with paint before we put down the truck Bedliner because you don't want to put the truck bedliner on directly on bare metal, so you don't need to use the same products, but I figured this rust trap would be a lot better than just using regular primer and I'm going to spray it with the spray Gun so I'm just testing out the spray and looks good now. If I were to do this over over again I'd - probably tape off the parts that I wanted to spray, because I ended up over spraying quite a bit of the whole truck bed. And then I have to come back and sand that down before I can do the truck bedliner. So I'm just hitting all the little spots where I see bare metal and especially those spots where I welded the hole up in the center there and I'm going to do that twice. So I'm going to I'm going to do a real light coat at first and then do another coat. You always want to do light coats and then I'm going to come back over that after it dries with some 220 grit sandpaper. Somehow, in the editing process I showed that twice wax on wax off all right, so I'm going to sand all of that down where I repainted with that primer and then I'm also taping off the tailgate. So I do one thing of tape and then I put the plastic on and then I do another thing of tape on the plastic. So this is the tack cloth and the tack cloth just. Is it like a sticky cloth that picks up all of the dust and cleans everything up really nice? So this is the protex truck bed liner, so there's two parts: there's the the truck bed liner and then the catalyst it's you'll see here in a minute. It'S kind of like a clear gluey stuff and this one is black. They also make tin table version, so you can have it tinted in any color that you want. So it's two to one. So you want to have two parts of the truck bedliner and one part of the catalyst, and it comes the kit. You can buy this all in a kit and it comes with the mixing bucket and the spray gun and everything I take that back. It may not come with the spray gun. You may apply that separately, but you want to stir this up for two minutes and it comes with these bottles. So you can reuse these a couple times and then you have to start a new bottle. You'Ll see here in a minute, but in between coats. You have to wait about twenty minutes and it depends on the humidity and the temperature. I was sitting at about 65 degrees. If it's really hot out, then it's going to set up faster, so you can also buy an additive that gives you more working time if you have to work in a hot environment. So on this first coat, you want to do a real light coat. So you can still see the paint showing through you're just gon na just like when you do any sort of paint process. The first coat is always very light, and with this, as you can see, I masked off the entire truck and I'm glad I did because when I had to paint up under the bed rails, this stuff is really thick. It'S not like paint and it doesn't just dissipate in the air when you spray it up, it goes in an arc and it's going to land somewhere else. All right. Take two. This is coat number two. So what you want to do is you want to get the side of the beds on the first and second coat. You don't want to spray the bottom part. Yet so you do your post first coat on the bed rails, second coat on the bed rails and then the third coat on the bed rails and as you're doing the third coat as you're coming out. You'Ll do the floor for the first coat. I think the fumes were getting to me at this point, so here is the the tailgate, and I just have this laying on the floor. If I were to do it again, I would get it up higher because, as you'll see here in a minute things started to get messy. You can probably guess why here's what I mean so whenever I had to overspray it went on the floor and then I had to walk around in it for another two hours and my shoes are never going to be the same so on the third coat after. I did the bed rails again, as I was coming out. That'S when you do the first coat of the floor of the truck and then you'll have to do the second and third coats of the floor from the outside. Now the fumes are really getting to me. Make sure you do this in a well-ventilated area with a mask on like I like you see here, so I think this is the second coat on the floor and again we're just doing real light coats here. I think the PSI I was running was 80 psi. The directions say anywhere from 45 to 90 psi on your spray gun and the the PSI is going to determine the texture, I'm not sure it'd, probably be a thicker texture. I would imagine with a lower psi, but I really am NOT positive and there's the oh. My goodness there's the problems, so the floor became so sticky that I started pulling up the stuff with my feet and it kind of made a mess. That'S why I said I would get that tailgate up higher if I were to do it again so on the second and third coats on the floor, I'm doing that from a ladder over the sides and just making sure I hit all the angles. There'S a lot more angles than you would think inside of this truck bed, so you have to get it from the right from the left from above from the back from the front, and you have to mix this in batches. You can't do it all at once, because it only has a 20 minute working time, so you can't mix it all until you're ready to spray. So it's going to take you about two hours to do the truck bed, because you have to wait those 15 to 20 minutes between coats, so right here, I'm just checking to see if I missed any spots hitting those spots where I need a little bit more. This is my third coat right here and I'm just making sure that I got every bit of it: okay, yep my shoes and walk down. Now my shoes are pretty much bed lined. So after you get the third coat on after a couple minutes, you can go ahead and peel the tape off. You want to do that, while it's still wet like I said that way, the tape doesn't get stuck under the hardened bed liner and there you go. Here'S what it's going to look like this is a couple days after it's finished and as you can see, it turned out really really nice. Here'S a close-up shot of the tailgate. I took the hardware out and didn't spray that I just wanted to be able to get it out in the future. I did spray some of the hooks and the hardware on the inside, but I think overall it turned out really well one of the things I wasn't sure how thick it was going to be. It'S not really as thick as I would have thought in my head. It'S probably 1/16 of an inch thick since I thought it was going to be so thick. I thought it would take care of some of those imperfections like in the front of the truck bed there and then wear eye patch that hole right there. You can see you can still kind of see those and you can see those imperfections in the front of the truck bed. But that's going to be taken care of when I put the box back in the aluminum truck box. So, if you're interested in any of these products check in the description below, like I said, they're made by sim and they carry all kinds of stuff from rust, presentative preventative, two seam sealer and everything in between thanks guys. Thanks for watching hit the thumbs up and the subscribe button, we have videos every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. If you enjoyed this video, please leave a comment below and if you have any questions, leave those there as well. We'Ll see you next time.
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